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Thursday 21 April 2016

Munich, Bavaria

...or, Maybe It's NOT Just About the Beer, After All.

This was the end point of my big fat European vacation, so by now I was supposed to be a jaded world traveler for whom antiquities and local food held no further charm. If that's so, I guess that goes into the books as another target missed, because Munich was great.

The big draw for us, or at least the part that people respond to most, was that we got to go to Oktoberfest. You know, lederhosen, dirndels, big giant beers served to boisterous crowds by fetching milkmaids with arms like ironmongers. It was all there - we had the beer, we ate the schnitzel, we saw the drunks. 7.2 million litres of beer consumed over the course of the festival. I haven't seen stats on tons of sausage or gallons of vomit, but based on casual observation I'm sure both are similarly impressive.

Two pithy observations on Oktoberfest: First, we certainly saw a lot of evidence that Germans are no better at drinking a lot of beer than anyone else - they get just as drunk as everyone else. What we did not see was people fighting or smashing things or generally misbehaving. I'm pretty sure if you released an extra 7.2 million litres of beer over two weeks or whatever Oktoberfest runs into the Lower Mainland, there would lots of exciting video for the evening news - smashing, burning, killing, pillaging, state of emergency, army called in, planes falling from the sky, etc. No idea how they avoid that there. Maybe there's another city no one knows about in Germany where all that happens, but not in Munich.


Throngs at Oktoberfest.  Note the large guy and woman to his right in traditional garb scarfing schnitzel.  Also note the Ferris wheel in the background.  Hey, awesome idea!  Let's serve thousands of people a lot of greasy food and WAY too much beer and then offer them a midway all full of spinning rides!  What could possibly go wrong?

My trophy shot from Munich - one of the permanent beer halls.  No way to get a seat in here, and I heard dark rumours about how some people avoid losing their seats in here when they have to go to the bathroom... 

Exterior shot of another permanent hall, across the street from that one above.  We sat outside with all these other people.
This long (and orderly and well-behaved) washroom lineup accounts for the seedy seat-saving practices I heard rumour of...

The other thing we saw was a lot of people wearing the costume during the day, going to work...like Halloween here except there's only one costume.

This was the Munich train station on a weekday, I can't remember what time of day, but I think mid-afternoon.  See the guys in lederhosen moving away from the camera on the right?  The woman coming towards it just to the right of that?  And although I know I give the impression of carefully planning every shot (call me about farmland near Phoenix if you believe that) this really was just a random "this is the train station" picture.
So there's more to it than just the beer...it really is a cultural celebration of long-held values around simplicity, community, hard work, fellowship. We spoke to a German our age who talked a bit wistfully about coming to Oktoberfest in the old days with her friends, and how none of them come anymore. In retrospect I wondered if she meant "they don't come anymore since reunification and the huge influx of clueless tourists I'm sitting in the middle of now".  Perhaps they don't come anymore because a lifetime of Oktoberfesting means you're pretty much done at our age.

Of course Munich has a lot of other great things, only some of which we had time to see. The old city hall, where twice a day for about 800 years, after a long musical buildup, a full size mechanical knight on horseback wearing Bavarian colours kicks butt on another knight in the colours of Saxony - we're talking serious regional rivalries, here. The palace of Ludwig I, father of Ludwig II, aka Ludwig the Mad, to whom Tourism Deutchslande is eternally grateful for all those fairytale castles. Hitler got a lot of traction at rallies in the plaza in his early days, too. Great churches old and new.

Lit up, evening time...I read the plaque but failed to record it, so you may speculate freely on who this is built to the glory of...

Just more detail on the front door of the church above...maybe you can read the plaques.  No, don't try, you can't,

Terrible night shot of a modern take on the bell tower.

The fountain at the foot of that modern church in the shot above.  Changing lights, very pretty.  Chilly, though.

A different, older, anonymous to me (didn't even read and then forget the plaque) church, whose lighting specialist apparently decided that grandeur = spooky.
 Public transit that is comprehendable even to non-German speakers labouring under several liters of Oktoberfest. The Hofbrauhaus, a permanent beer hall/brewery since 1516, another place where the brownshirts had exciting speaking engagements in the old days. Dunkelbier (dark beer).

This place has been here since something like 1513, and they continue to brew right on the premises.  The oompah-pah band has amplifiers but at least they really are playing....probably 7X24.  This is in downtown Munich, not on the grounds of the Oktoberfest.


A dreamy mall built into buildings that are really old in downtown Munchen.  Very expensive shops in here. 

Okay, sorry, I couldn't help it.  These are just juicers that remind me of "War of the Worlds".  They're not even that expensive.


And that was it!  I flew home from here the next day.  Probably took everyone almost as long to wade through all these posts as the three weeks it took to have all that fun in all those cities:  Nuremberg, Leipzig, Berlin, Riccione, Verona, Munich....friendly people, beautiful cities, expensive food, highly recommended.  We can all breathe a big sigh of relief that THAT'S finally over, and I'll post something, anything, else next time.  But watch out because I'm going to the Grand Canyon and a bunch of other canyons later on this year...









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